Top Fite Home  
  Where to BuyDownload BrochuresContact Us

Stinson Reliant FAQ

I did not find the answer to my question here. How do I get further assistance?

What engine do you recommend? What is the best choice for the model?

The O.S. FT-160 engine is highly recommended and is featured in the instructions. It has ample power for even a 22 lb. model with scale appearance and sound. The power rating of the FT-160 is 2 hp, so it is not a super-powerful engine. It is much lighter than the G-38, however. The O.S. FT-160 twin was used on the original model and it also required extensions, but doesn't require a muffler. A piece of brass tubing was brazed onto the exhaust pipes of the engine. The sound and noise level were very acceptable. The O.S. FT-160 twin is by far the best engine for this model. It sounds great, has just the right amount of power, runs beautifully and fits completely in the cowl.

An O.S. Surpass III 1.20 with pump would provide about the same power as the FT-160. It will sound nice (but not as nice as the FT-160). The cylinder will stick out of the cowl. Build the model as light as possible as the 1.20 won't have quite the reserve power of an engine turning a larger prop.

A strong O.S. 120 produces about 13 lbs of static thrust, and would be more than adequate power for the Stinson as long as it weighed less than 22 lbs and wasn't being flown at higher elevations. The Saito 150 should handle the model very nicely.

The G-38 would be acceptable, though it is at the upper end of the power we would recommend. The model was not designed for high power, high-speed flight. It was designed to replicate how the full size aircraft flew. The G38 is a heavier engine, so this will increase the weight of the model. At 25 lbs the model flies in a very scale like manner on the OS FT-160 twin. If it were my model, I would use an engine that is lighter and has less power.

The SuperTigre G-3250 and the SuperTigre G-2300 will both overpower the model. This isn't bad, if you carefully manage the throttle while flying. You do not want to fly this model like a rocket as it isn't intended to be flown that way and isn't stressed for it. The G-3250 will stick out of the cowl. If using the SuperTigre G-3250 you would need an in-cowl muffler and would indeed require extensions to get out of the cowl. The G-2300 would be a better choice, but it would also require an extension. Neither could use a standard muffler. If you use the SuperTigre G-3250, Slimline makes an in-cowl muffler (SLIG6003) that would work but would probably require an extension. Aerotrend has some silicone tubing that would work well. The G-3250 and G-2300 both have more power than the model needs, so good throttle technique is a must.

The Saito 180 would probably stick out of the cowl, but it would be a better engine for the model than the G-38 (the muffler should fit inside the cowl with a silicone extension for the exhaust).

The O.S. Sirius 5 cylinder would seriously overpower the aircraft.

During the frame up of the wing panels, the instructions clearly state that the box that aligns the wing onto the aluminum tube that runs through the fuselage is to be glued in with epoxy. What if there is a slight variation from one wing panel to another and the dihedral angle side to side is different? Should these boxes be tack glued in place and then final gluing upon fitting to the fuselage?

The Stinson is a large model and the boxes for the aluminum tubes extend over a considerable distance. For that reason, even moderate variations from one wing panel to the other will produce little angular difference as far as the dihedral angle is concerned. We would not be concerned about it. If you would feel more comfortable tacking it in place until you can check the alignment later this would be fine as well. Just be sure to epoxy it securly at that time.

I'm at Step 6 on Page 29 of the instruction manual. In order to get a straight line for the bottom longeron (when viewing the formers from above the work bench) between formers 5 and 9, I would have to cut a notch of perhaps 1/4" in former #6 and somewhat smaller notches in formers 7 and 8. My formers fit between the main stringers. Can I just align between formers 6 and 9?

A straight line from F5 to F9 duplicates the lines of the full size aircraft. Variations of 1/16" (not unusual) at a couple of construction steps can result in a 3/16" or larger deviation at some locations. This is a large aircraft and small variations can lead to large cumulative deviations. Unless you intend on competing in large scale contests, going from F6 to F9 would work and probably look better as well.

On Step 1, page 39. No mention is made of former FB3BD. What do I do with this former?

F3BD was added to the kit for modelers who wanted to make a removable cover over the landing gear. The manual shows a hole drilled into the sheeting to access one of the gear mounting screws.

Page 28 Building former 4 Step A and B. F4C is added to the front and F4CT is the back. In step 5 page 31 the second F4C is glued to the front of former 4. When cutting the door opening in step 3 page 41, the lower triangular portion of F4C extends into the opening. Should the excess of the triangle that extends below the top longeron be removed.

Yes, trim this section if required for clearance.

How do I match the trim scheme on the box?

If you plan to cover the model in the trim scheme on the box you need:

COVQ0403 Dark Red, 15' (2)
COVQ0410 Black, 15' (1)

Why do the flap servos mount in opposite directions?

The flap servos are designed to be connected together by a 'Y' cable. This requires that they be oriented with the servo horns pointing the same way.

On step 2, page 29, adding the basswood stringer from former 3 through 8. Is this to terminate at former 8 or should it be allowed to extend beyond the former?

Extend it past the former so as to meet the LE of the fin.

Should former F9B be flush with the plywood tail gear mounting plate?


What are the plastic STNGPL10 inspection plates for? And how can I make my model closer to scale?

We included the plastic STNGPL10 inspection plates in the kit for modelers who wanted to add some scale details. We do not mention them in the manual. If you have scale 3-views, they will show some inspection plates.

Typically, inspection plates are added to an aircraft during annual inspections. These are glued to the fabric, which is then cut on the inside of the inspection plate opening, typically to inspect control linkages and other parts.

If you want an accurate scale model, you will need to get a 3-view of the SR-9 to compare. See your manual for recommended locations where you can purchase 3-views.

If you just want to add some scale-like detail, glue the round inspection plates at points that an aircraft would have them.

Shouldn't the aileron hinges be perpendicular to the ailerons?

No, they must be installed as instructed or you will not be able to get the aileron on the wing. Install them exactly as shown and the professionally designed geometry works perfect. Enjoy!

Stiffening the Gear if Flying Off Unusually Rough Surfaces

The landing gear system on the SR-9 was designed to fail in a manner that would cause minimal damage to the model. It is always a balancing act to design the gear to be strong enough to sustain a hard landing or rough materials, yet weak enough not to cause extensive damage on very hard landings, or crashes.

If your model will be flown from grass runways, or is heavy and in the upper area of the recommended weight range (25 lbs), you may want to strengthen the landing gear. You may also want to strengthen it if you are not known for your smooth landing technique.

This can be done in two ways:

  1. If you have not completed sheeting the front of the fuselage, add some 1/4" x 3/8" basswood sticks to the 1/4" ply gear mounts. These sticks should be epoxied between the ply mounts and the floor of the fuselage cabin area. This will transfer some of the landing loads to the main fuselage structure.
  2. Install a 1/8" x 2-1/2" x 9-1/2" aluminum plate across the bottom of the landing gear where they bolt to the 1/4" ply mounts. You can bolt it in place using the same bolts holding the gear to the ply mounts.

DO NOT do both of the above. This would cause the gear to be too strong, causing extensive damage on very hard landings.

I did not find the answer to my question here. How do I get further assistance?

Back to main FAQ/Contact Info page

© 1997-2017 Hobbico, Inc. All rights reserved. Terms of Use